Fix bug in onion message payload decode

Fix bug in onion message payload decode

Previously, we were decoding payload lengths as a VarInt. Per the spec, this is
wrong -- it should be decoded as a BigSize.  This bug also exists in our
payment payload decoding, to be fixed separately.

Upcoming reply path tests caught this bug because we hadn't encoded a payload
greater than 253 before, so we hadn't hit the problem that VarInts are encoded
as little-endian whereas BigSizes are encoded as big-endian.