Make router benchmarks more realistic by not running test-only code

Make router benchmarks more realistic by not running test-only code

`cargo bench` sets `cfg(test)`, causing us to hit some test-only
code in the router when benchmarking, throwing off our benchmarks
substantially. Here we swap from the `unstable` feature to a more
clearly internal feature (`_bench_unstable`) and also checking for
it when enabling test-only code.